To get rid of rats, combine three things: seal the entry points they use to get inside, set snap traps along their runways, and remove the food, water, and clutter that drew them. Trapping is more effective and safer indoors than poison — rats killed by bait often die inside walls, creating an odor problem, and poison risks pets and wildlife. Done together, exclusion and trapping clear a rat problem and keep it from coming back.
Key Takeaways
- Exclusion is the permanent fix — seal gaps; rats can squeeze through a hole the size of a quarter.
- Snap traps beat poison indoors — faster, confirmable, and no rats dying in your walls.
- Remove food, water, and harborage — they won’t stay where there’s nothing to eat or hide in.
- Be cautious with rat poison — secondary poisoning of pets/wildlife and odor are real downsides.
- Act fast — rats breed quickly, so a small problem becomes a big one.
Rats vs. mice (it changes your approach)
Rats are much larger than mice, need bigger entry gaps (about a quarter-inch to half-inch and up), are more cautious of new objects, and travel established routes along walls. Their caution matters for trapping: rats are “neophobic,” so they may avoid a new trap for a few days. The fix is to pre-bait — set baited, unset traps first so they get comfortable feeding, then set them. (Dealing with mice instead? See how to get rid of mice.)
Step 1: Seal them out (exclusion)
This is what makes the result permanent. Inspect the exterior and seal every gap a rat could use:
- Close holes with steel wool packed into gaps plus caulk, or hardware cloth and metal — rats chew through foam, plastic, and wood.
- Check around pipes, vents, the foundation, the roofline, and where utilities enter.
- Fit door sweeps and repair damaged screens and vents.
- Trim back tree branches and vines that give roof access.
The CDC emphasizes sealing entry points as the foundation of rodent control (CDC: Rodent Control).
Step 2: Trap (the indoor workhorse)
Snap traps are the most effective, confirmable tool for indoor rats:
- Use rat-sized snap traps, set in pairs along walls and runways where you see droppings or rub marks (rats travel the edges, not open floors).
- Bait with peanut butter, dried fruit, or a bit of bacon, and pre-bait unset traps for a few days to overcome their caution.
- Set many traps at once — under-trapping just educates the survivors.
- Compare options in our guide to the best mouse and rat traps, and for heavy infestations see how to treat a severe rodent infestation.
Step 3: Remove what attracts them
Rats invade for food, water, and shelter. Take them away:
- Store food (and pet food) in sealed metal or glass containers, and clean up crumbs and spills.
- Secure trash in cans with tight lids and pick up fallen fruit or birdseed outside.
- Fix leaks and remove standing water.
- Declutter garages, basements, and yards — woodpiles, debris, and dense vegetation are prime harborage.
A word on rat poison
Rodenticides have a place outdoors in tamper-resistant stations, but indoors they’re usually the wrong first choice. Poisoned rats often die inside wall voids (a serious odor problem), and bait poses a risk of secondary poisoning to pets, owls, and other wildlife that eat the rodents. If you do consider it, read our honest guide to rat poison and follow the label exactly. For most homes, trapping plus exclusion is safer and more reliable. And skip ultrasonic repellers — the evidence says they don’t work.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the fastest way to get rid of rats?
Set many rat snap traps at once along their runways (pre-baited so they overcome their caution), while sealing entry points and removing food and water. Trapping gives fast, confirmable results indoors — faster in practice than poison, which is slow and leaves rats dying in walls.
Is poison or trapping better for rats?
Trapping is usually better indoors: it’s confirmable, avoids rats dying and rotting inside walls, and doesn’t risk poisoning pets or wildlife. Rodenticides can play a role outdoors in tamper-resistant stations, but for an indoor problem, snap traps plus exclusion are safer and more effective.
How do I find where rats are getting in?
Look for gaps around pipes, vents, the foundation, the roofline, and utility entries — rats can use a hole the size of a quarter. Follow droppings, greasy rub marks along walls, and gnaw marks back to entry points, then seal each with steel and hardware cloth.
Why do I have rats even though my house is clean?
Rats come for food, water, and shelter, and they’ll exploit any gap to get them — even a clean home offers warmth, pet food, garbage, or a leaky pipe. Cleanliness helps, but sealing entry points and removing all food and water access is what actually keeps them out.