Getting rid of termites comes down to two proven professional systems — a liquid soil barrier (like Termidor) or in-ground bait stations (like Sentricon) — backed by inspection and moisture control. Termites are the one pest where DIY has real limits: a small, accessible spot can be spot-treated, but an active infestation in your home’s structure almost always warrants a professional, because the cost of getting it wrong is structural damage.
Key Takeaways
- Two systems work: liquid barriers and bait stations — the liquid vs. baiting comparison covers which fits your situation.
- An active structural infestation usually needs a pro — the stakes (your home’s frame) are too high for guesswork.
- Identify the type first — subterranean termites (from the soil) are far more common and destructive than drywood.
- Moisture is the enabler — fix leaks and drainage; termites need it.
- Inspect yearly — early detection is the difference between a treatment and a rebuild.
First, confirm it’s termites — and which kind
Termites are often mistaken for ants. Termites have straight antennae, equal-length wings, and a thick waist; flying ants have bent antennae, unequal wings, and a pinched waist. The two main groups matter for treatment:
- Subterranean termites live in the soil and build mud tubes up to the wood they eat. They cause the large majority of U.S. termite damage and are what the bait/liquid systems target (University of Florida/IFAS: Termites).
- Drywood termites live inside the wood itself (no soil contact) and are treated differently — often by spot treatment or, for heavy infestations, whole-structure fumigation.
Signs to look for: mud tubes on the foundation, discarded wings near windows, hollow-sounding or blistered wood, and frass (drywood termite droppings). A monitoring tool like the Termatrac radar device can help confirm activity inside walls.
The two professional treatment systems
For subterranean termites, treatment is one of two approaches (or a combination):
Liquid barrier treatments
A non-repellent liquid termiticide (Termidor’s fipronil is the best known) is applied to the soil around and under the structure. Termites can’t detect it, pass through it, and carry it back to the colony. It creates a treated zone that protects the structure. See our Termidor review and the best termite sprays for the products involved, plus termite foam for voids and galleries.
Bait stations
In-ground stations (Sentricon is the leading brand) place a slow-acting bait around the property. Foraging termites feed and share it, collapsing the colony over time. Bait is lower-disruption and monitors activity continuously. See our Sentricon review and the head-to-head Sentricon vs. Termidor and best termite bait stations.
What about DIY and “natural” termite remedies?
Be realistic. You can spot-treat accessible, localized wood with foam or borate, and bait stations are partly DIY-friendly. But a non-repellent liquid barrier requires precise application around the whole structure — a job for licensed pros with the right equipment. As for orange oil and other “natural” treatments, they can kill termites on contact in the spot you treat but won’t reach a colony hidden in your walls and soil. For an active structural infestation, professional treatment is the honest answer.
Prevent termites before they start
Termites need moisture and wood-to-soil contact. Deny them both:
- Fix leaks, downspouts, and grading so water drains away from the foundation.
- Keep wood, mulch, and firewood away from the foundation, and maintain an 18-inch gap between soil and any wood siding.
- Ventilate crawlspaces and reduce humidity.
- Get a professional inspection every year — termite damage is slow and hidden, and the damage statistics show why early detection matters.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most effective way to get rid of termites?
For subterranean termites, the two proven systems are a non-repellent liquid soil barrier (e.g., Termidor) and in-ground bait stations (e.g., Sentricon), often installed by a professional. The right choice depends on your home and soil — see our liquid-vs-baiting comparison. For an active structural infestation, professional treatment is strongly recommended.
Can I get rid of termites myself?
You can spot-treat small, accessible areas with foam or borate and install bait stations, but a full structural infestation is beyond reliable DIY — a liquid barrier requires precise whole-structure application. Given the risk of hidden structural damage, most homeowners are better off with a licensed pro for an active infestation.
Do natural termite treatments like orange oil work?
Orange oil and similar contact treatments can kill termites where you directly apply them, which is useful for small, localized drywood spots. They don’t reach a subterranean colony in the soil and walls, so they’re not a solution for a whole-house infestation.
How do I know if I have termites?
Watch for mud tubes on the foundation, discarded wings near windows, hollow-sounding or blistered wood, and frass (tiny wood-colored droppings). Because termites work hidden inside wood, a yearly professional inspection is the most reliable way to catch them early.