The way to get rid of squirrels for good is exclusion, not poison or repellents: find and seal the gaps they’re using to get into your attic or garden, remove the food that’s drawing them, and trap any that are already inside (checking local wildlife laws first). Squirrels are clever and persistent, so scent sprays and gadgets only buy short-term relief — sealing them out is what lasts.
Key Takeaways
- Exclusion is the permanent fix — seal entry points and they can’t get back in.
- Use a one-way door to let attic squirrels out before sealing, so none are trapped inside.
- Remove the food — squirrel-proof or remove bird feeders, and pick up fallen nuts and fruit.
- Repellents are temporary — squirrels habituate fast; treat them as a stopgap.
- Check local laws before trapping — relocating squirrels is regulated or banned in many areas.
First, know what you’re dealing with
Most squirrel problems fall into two camps: squirrels in the structure (attic, soffits, chimney) and squirrels in the garden (raiding feeders, digging bulbs, eating vegetables). The approach overlaps, but attic squirrels are the more urgent problem — they can chew wiring and insulation and may be nesting with young. Tree squirrels are also not controlled with poisons the way rats and mice are; there are generally no rodenticides registered for them, and poisoning is both ineffective and often illegal for them (The Humane Society: Squirrels). That’s why exclusion and trapping are the real tools.
Getting squirrels out of the attic
This is a sequence, and order matters:
- Find every entry point. Inspect the roofline, soffits, vents, gable ends, and where utilities enter. Squirrels need only a 1.5–2 inch gap. Look for chew marks, droppings, and greasy rub trails.
- Check for babies first. In spring and late summer, a female may have a nest of young. Sealing her out then leaves the litter to die inside (and a frantic mother chewing to get back). If you suspect young, wait until they’re mobile or get professional help to remove them.
- Install a one-way door. Mount a one-way exclusion door over the main entry so squirrels can leave but not return. Give it several days to ensure everyone is out.
- Seal everything permanently. Once the attic is empty, close all gaps with heavy-gauge hardware cloth, metal flashing, or steel — squirrels chew through wood, foam, and plastic. Cap the chimney and screen the vents.
- Trim overhanging branches back 6–8 feet from the roof to remove the bridge that got them up there.
Keeping squirrels out of the garden
Gardens are about removing temptation and adding barriers:
- Squirrel-proof or remove bird feeders — feeders are the number-one attractant. Use baffles or a squirrel-proof design, or take feeders down for a while.
- Clean up fallen seed, nuts, and fruit that keep squirrels coming back.
- Protect bulbs and beds with hardware-cloth barriers over newly planted bulbs, or plant in cages.
- Use motion-activated sprinklers, which deter better and longer than scent sprays.
- Manage your expectations on repellents. Capsaicin and predator-scent products give only short-lived results; see our honest take on squirrel repellents.
Trapping squirrels (know the rules first)
For a squirrel already inside or a persistent garden raider, a trap is the most direct tool — but the legal part comes first:
- Check your state and local wildlife regulations. Relocating squirrels is restricted or illegal in many areas, and some require licensed handling.
- Live cage traps baited with peanut butter or nuts catch them unharmed; lethal traps are an option where relocation isn’t allowed. Compare options in our squirrel trap guide.
- Place traps along travel routes — on the roof, near entry points, or along fence lines.
- Trapping alone won’t last — without sealing the entry points, new squirrels move in. Exclusion is still the endgame.
Ground squirrels are different
If your problem is burrowing ground squirrels in the yard (not tree squirrels in the attic), the approach shifts to burrow-based trapping and, in agricultural settings, baiting under different regulations — see trapping ground squirrels.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the fastest way to get rid of squirrels?
For squirrels in the attic, a one-way exclusion door gets them out within days, after which you seal the entry permanently. For garden squirrels, removing bird feeders and food sources cuts the attraction fast. There’s no instant fix, but exclusion is both the fastest lasting solution and the only permanent one.
What smell do squirrels hate?
Squirrels are deterred somewhat by capsaicin (hot pepper) and predator scents, which is why these show up in repellents. But they habituate quickly, so any smell-based deterrent is temporary at best. Don’t rely on scent alone — combine it with food removal and exclusion.
Will poison get rid of squirrels?
No — and it’s the wrong tool. There are generally no rodenticides registered for tree squirrels, poisoning them is often illegal, and a squirrel that dies in your wall creates an odor problem. Use exclusion and trapping (within local laws) instead.
How do I keep squirrels out of my attic permanently?
Get them out with a one-way door, then seal every entry point with chew-proof materials like hardware cloth and metal flashing, cap the chimney, screen vents, and trim branches back from the roof. Permanent exclusion is what stops them from returning.